The recent release of the Vittles restaurant list sent shockwaves through the London dining scene by placing a small Enfield eatery above famous fine dining institutions. I decided I had to make the trek north to see if Neco Tantuni truly deserved its ranking as the fourth best restaurant in the city. The location is far removed from the glamour of central London and sits quietly on a busy road in a simple storefront. I walked in and found a bustling atmosphere that felt miles away from the pretension of Mayfair or Soho. It was immediately clear that this place relies on exceptional flavor rather than expensive marketing or decor.
The menu focuses on the tantuni which is a specialty from the southern Turkish city of Mersin. I sat near the open kitchen and watched the chef stir-fry finely chopped beef in a traditional large metal sac pan. The process involves steaming the meat and then frying it in cotton oil to achieve a tender yet crispy texture. He pressed the paper-thin lavash bread into the pan to soak up the savory juices before rolling it with onions, tomatoes, and parsley. I squeezed a wedge of fresh lemon over the wrap and took a bite that completely redefined my understanding of Turkish street food.
I also ordered the yogurtlu tantuni which many critics have called a perfect and flawless dish. The kitchen takes the standard wrap and slices it into rounds before covering it in thick garlic yogurt and a rich tomato sauce. I was mesmerized when they poured sizzling browned butter over the top to create a decadent and nutty finish. The contrast between the hot spiced meat and the cool creamy yogurt creates a texture that is impossible to stop eating. It is a hearty and complex dish that feels incredibly sophisticated despite its humble presentation.
The restaurant itself used to be a standard cafe and still retains a cozy and unpolished charm that puts you at ease. I loved the lack of ceremony as diners squeezed into the small space to enjoy their meals together. Families and solo diners sat side by side and focused entirely on the food in front of them. The prices are astonishingly low for the quality which allows you to feast without worrying about the bill. It reminded me that the best food often comes from kitchens that prioritize tradition and soul over trends.
No visit to Neco Tantuni is complete without ordering the künefe for dessert. This sweet treat is made from shredded phyllo pastry layered with unsalted cheese and baked until golden and crisp. I found the balance of sweetness perfect as the syrup did not overpower the savory notes of the melting cheese. It arrived piping hot and provided a satisfying crunch that paired beautifully with a strong cup of Turkish tea. I left the restaurant feeling full and convinced that this hidden gem is worth every minute of the travel time.
Tell me in the comments if you would be willing to travel to Enfield just to try this famous wrap.
